Donuts by John T. Edge

Author:John T. Edge
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Penguin Publishing Group
Published: 2010-08-20T04:00:00+00:00

Calas

Take a bite. Feel the al dente resistance of rice beneath your teeth. Discern the trace of nutmeg. Divine, in that bite, in that cala, the complement of past and present, the savor of New Orleans. This recipe is adapted from one by my friend and mentor Jessica Harris, author of, among other books, The Welcome Table. She points out that calas were, in the New Orleans of days past, the “exclusive culinary preserve of African American cooks.” And she sketches linguistic complements in coastal Georgia and South Carolina where, in the Gullah dialect, kala means rice.

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